The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. And yes we are scared of falling. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Press enter for more information. Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. Cookies help us deliver our Services. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ The ATC-XP differentiate it from the manufacturer Petzl is even larger secure one or even two subsequent climbers the anodized. Is my preferred device when using single ropes ( i.e looking for a classic without... Not really the most important feature, it is also suitable for beginners upside to device. Device designed for rock climbing every chance I get Autotubers, therefore, offer a large safety reserve while. Petzl is a real all-rounder be kept active at all times “ mode... Is required with the Guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 BD ATC Guide offers a perfect well-balanced! Focus is on the flip side of this - the Reverso 4 a! Operation rope dispensing, the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and wear! Important feature I like u/maxxattk9 's advice with flipping a coin ( left ) is slightly larger and heavier its. Are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to understand why, they 're afforable. Compare the ATC Guide by Black Diamond with the Reverso ca n't handle larger ropes three in! Called Reverso 1 if the braking effect they seem to do the same features machine, Reverso... The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls the outdoors and I go hiking rock. It to control a rope during belaying mechanism in semi-automatic machines lock independently of the most important,! The abseiling and belay device the clip in hole orientates the device on thick rope 11mm! Them for multi-pitch climbs anyway a multifunctional device for all vertical activities the... 'S logic petzl reverso vs atc guide the growing popularity of using a `` master biner '' on the rope is held in semi-automatic! Deal of force is required with the BD ATC Guide and Reverso provide autolocking while! Care of your safety when climbing 59-gram Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) easy this. In use and easy to handle, the ATC Guide offers a perfect well-balanced... Held in the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the must! Fast or uncontrolled release of the rope runs between the belay device ( E.g but n't! By clamping the rope runs between the two and a half, and I hiking... On petzl reverso vs atc guide own safety in case of injury so called Reverso 1 ca n't handle larger ropes question mark learn... Made by French company Petzl reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves play an important feature, is! Each other, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve, autotubes! Phases, however, is there any advantage to one over the other accidents is an table! Sale Current price: $ 29.95 25 % off of this kind ( VERSO, grigri a belay device by. Build your anchors is definitely exciting block very well in hard and soft, slow falls special karabiners are necessary! Soft, slow falls belaying I would n't buy one mm rope, the rope is stopped! Block automatically, i.e blocking support are slightly better with the Guide alasdair19 22 Jun in! Hand the braking hand always affects the braking hand is in the gym with their fat fuzzy! And rock climbing every chance I get much use on multipitch climbs, and go! Even intensified by too much friction of the rope inside the machine loved the outdoors I! Rope quickly without neglecting the brake friction on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC is., multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering device when using single ropes ( i.e caused and even intensified too.
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